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#19 |
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(was to a picture of surfers)
I remember golden grains of sand and the glimmer of the waves Running with my board in hand, down the beach I raced Sprinting toward open water screamin carpe dium at wave breaks Riding on the crest of life with tunnel vision saying grace I never feared rip curls, a bull shark’s bite or being submerged undertow But, was more concerned with the surf, the wind and whats afloat the currents trending flow, tidal riding times or when to b catchin boats ud think I’d have this memorized, I’d bet i don’t I get caught up in the minute, they tend to blend over the water Back to the sky, trying to ride high on waves I couldn’t carve in A decorated edgin dedicate, I quested quickly for white marlins woke up to waves, slept by injestin’ valerian shark cartilage I paddled my hardest to service the great kahuna's sermons Ventured into currents till the turbulence grew uncertain Couldn’t see anemones n urchins thought the next wave id surf in Next surge formed a maelstrom that’d leave atlantis unburdened Rode its’ crest for what seemed the oceans length n then its surface The board warped underneath my feet, and I was nervous My feet slid off, Its become hard to breathe and my heads hurtin…. I may be out too deep, in the dark, but at least im surfin ...an ode to the dead surfers... |
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