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-   -   If i was to build a grow tent (http://netcees.org/showthread.php?t=143730)

the Munster 07-06-2020 09:24 PM

Even if you don’t need it it would help you more than hurt, especially in flower. But I would use it in veg without question, but only because I’ve seen them die. Right in front of me. Started adding cal mag, some tomatoes made it some didn’t bro. Autoflowers it’s a good chance none of em make it or they become something that you do not want

the Munster 07-07-2020 09:03 AM

Uh oh I watched video

For medium he is using

MOKOKO premium coco substrate carries the Dutch RHP stamp of quality guaranteeing all processes have been stringently monitored from raw materials to production and storage. 100% recyclable MO’KOKO is an excellent alternative for the environmentally conscious grower.
- RHP certified to ensure the highest physical and chemical specifications have been met
- Excellent for cultivating ornamental plants,vegetables and potted plants.
- Pre-washed and buffered to prevent calcium and magnesium lockout while stabilizing pH values.
- Low EC value.
- Free of harmful parasites and disease.
- Completely recyclable and renewable.
- Excellent air to water ratio.
- Can be used alone as a soilless medium or as a conditioner with other grow media.





Are you using this same exact coco uh oh? If not what are you using? The part I bolder let’s you know that they’ve added garden lime to this coco. I tried to find “ingredients” and on forst google I could not find exact ingredients, but I’m 99% percent sure that if you find contents or ingredients it will mention either garden lime or ground up oyster shell or something similar to keep the ph stabilized and also to add calcium magnesium

If you just use regular coco without any of this then you need to 1. Add cal mag and 2. Absolutely make sure your ph is within 5.9-6.5(this is why I initially tried to shy you away from coco)

But even if it does have lime I still would add calmag lol. That’s just me tho and what I’ve learned from experience, and I have to add it in soil in flower so I know I would still do it in coco because coco is way more inert and nutes wash out way more easier in coco

But imma stop repeating myself

I see you linked canna coco brick, which is different from Mokoko and does not have lime or any equivalent
Good luck bro

the Munster 07-07-2020 09:20 AM

It’s funny to me too tho, I went through the comments and I actually see people asking “so how much lime do I add” and he doesn’t answer it’s really fucked up that he doesn’t tell you guys that part lol

Mac 07-07-2020 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UserName (Post 779498)
Starting to get the sense this isn’t about tomatoes

oh god. it was actually very wholesome to think they were working together to make a tomato garden

I'm so disappointed and sad now, how do I unsee this

uh-oh 07-07-2020 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the Munster (Post 779697)
Uh oh I watched video

For medium he is using

MOKOKO premium coco substrate carries the Dutch RHP stamp of quality guaranteeing all processes have been stringently monitored from raw materials to production and storage. 100% recyclable MO’KOKO is an excellent alternative for the environmentally conscious grower.
- RHP certified to ensure the highest physical and chemical specifications have been met
- Excellent for cultivating ornamental plants,vegetables and potted plants.
- Pre-washed and buffered to prevent calcium and magnesium lockout while stabilizing pH values.
- Low EC value.
- Free of harmful parasites and disease.
- Completely recyclable and renewable.
- Excellent air to water ratio.
- Can be used alone as a soilless medium or as a conditioner with other grow media.





Are you using this same exact coco uh oh? If not what are you using? The part I bolder let’s you know that they’ve added garden lime to this coco. I tried to find “ingredients” and on forst google I could not find exact ingredients, but I’m 99% percent sure that if you find contents or ingredients it will mention either garden lime or ground up oyster shell or something similar to keep the ph stabilized and also to add calcium magnesium

If you just use regular coco without any of this then you need to 1. Add cal mag and 2. Absolutely make sure your ph is within 5.9-6.5(this is why I initially tried to shy you away from coco)

But even if it does have lime I still would add calmag lol. That’s just me tho and what I’ve learned from experience, and I have to add it in soil in flower so I know I would still do it in coco because coco is way more inert and nutes wash out way more easier in coco

But imma stop repeating myself

I see you linked canna coco brick, which is different from Mokoko and does not have lime or any equivalent
Good luck bro

the canna coco is prewashed and buffered as well, but that just means its been rinsed of all the excess salts that accumulate, which can block your plants from uptaking nutes. it doesn't have lime added? . but word its rhp certified and has a ph of 5.9-7

the canna coco itself i mean. so its basically the same shit just a different brand. im worried about fungus gnats tho bout to cop sticky traps and NEMATOADS to be safe lol

but word i got some cal mag AIGHT. FUCK. nutrients wash out of coco easy when you're using bottled nutrients. which is why im going the organic dry shit. i don't want to use cal mag or any of that unless i absolutely have to. i don't know why im being stubborn on it. even tho theyre organic bottled nutrients its still weird to me pouring fluids other than water on it lol

but yea i know the PH is gonna be the key, i'm gonna shoot for 6.2 for all waterings, and gonna check my coco mix as well prior to planting anything, im guessing you can bring it down by just flushing it with a lower ph water? cuz the brick said it has a range of 5.9 to 7 right out of the bag.

but word the ph range you described is what the plants will actually need to absorb any nutrients. at least thats what im learning.

i seen him use dolomite lime? the dude in the vid but i feel it was a different scenario, maybe in one of the teas he used to save plants. but there was mad shit in it. guano, earthworm castings etc. and im assuming making the tea is basically just making homemade bottled nutes. giving them ready immediate access where as the dry fertilizers are more of a slow release

but i seen it described as like juice with humans. like its healthy as fuck and rewarding to eat an apple, but if you drank a gallon of apple juice you're fucking up type deal, the healthiness of it is lost on you. sure your getting natural sugars and shit but since you don't break it down and digest it its not as good for you

but word i know this style of grow is pretty fringe from everything i've read ima give it a shot though. everyone has some type of soil mix and a rack of bottled nutrients and feed schedules and shit lol.

uh-oh 07-07-2020 06:55 PM

i actually just seen some other shit saying don't trust brands that say its prebuffered and do it yourself by soaking it in a cal mag solution for 8 hours

eddie you might be onto something here fam. i ain't gonna doubt you anymore. unless i find someone swearing by the canna prior to me using it lol

Ouch 07-07-2020 08:46 PM

look at this funny thibg.. like 15 years ago roughly... back in new york a few years after that I played uh-oh beat and niggas believed it because i was basially only with a computer.


I can remember the beatm or what it was but I lied to my friends as a kid saying I way uh-oh

the Munster 07-08-2020 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uh-oh (Post 779761)
i actually just seen some other shit saying don't trust brands that say its prebuffered and do it yourself by soaking it in a cal mag solution for 8 hours

eddie you might be onto something here fam. i ain't gonna doubt you anymore. unless i find someone swearing by the canna prior to me using it lol

I never heard of the brand of coco dude in the vid uses but it’s very intriguing. He’s using coco straight up as if it’s soil. Adding all dry amendments and garden line is already in it as if it’s potting mix.

Like you said normally it would be buffered with liquid calmag. His is buffered with garden lime.

But yea coco takes whatever ph you water it with. Meaning if you water with 6.2 water you have nothing to worry about

If you water with 5.0 water, the ph will be 5.0

If you water with 8.0 water, the ph will be 8.0.

You don’t need nematodes. Sticky traps work perfect against gnats. You’re not using soil so it may not be as bad, and fungus gnats, as well as all pests generally appear when you overwater. So as long as you spend time with them, and get used to their habits, you should be fine.

the Munster 07-08-2020 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uh-oh (Post 779754)
the canna coco is prewashed and buffered as well, but that just means its been rinsed of all the excess salts that accumulate, which can block your plants from uptaking nutes. it doesn't have lime added? . but word its rhp certified and has a ph of 5.9-7

the canna coco itself i mean. so its basically the same shit just a different brand. im worried about fungus gnats tho bout to cop sticky traps and NEMATOADS to be safe lol

but word i got some cal mag AIGHT. FUCK. nutrients wash out of coco easy when you're using bottled nutrients. which is why im going the organic dry shit. i don't want to use cal mag or any of that unless i absolutely have to. i don't know why im being stubborn on it. even tho theyre organic bottled nutrients its still weird to me pouring fluids other than water on it lol

but yea i know the PH is gonna be the key, i'm gonna shoot for 6.2 for all waterings, and gonna check my coco mix as well prior to planting anything, im guessing you can bring it down by just flushing it with a lower ph water? cuz the brick said it has a range of 5.9 to 7 right out of the bag.

but word the ph range you described is what the plants will actually need to absorb any nutrients. at least thats what im learning.

i seen him use dolomite lime? the dude in the vid but i feel it was a different scenario, maybe in one of the teas he used to save plants. but there was mad shit in it. guano, earthworm castings etc. and im assuming making the tea is basically just making homemade bottled nutes. giving them ready immediate access where as the dry fertilizers are more of a slow release

but i seen it described as like juice with humans. like its healthy as fuck and rewarding to eat an apple, but if you drank a gallon of apple juice you're fucking up type deal, the healthiness of it is lost on you. sure your getting natural sugars and shit but since you don't break it down and digest it its not as good for you

but word i know this style of grow is pretty fringe from everything i've read ima give it a shot though. everyone has some type of soil mix and a rack of bottled nutrients and feed schedules and shit lol.


Lol wherever you got that apple juice bit from, that person who said it does not understand how plants work or how compost tea works

Compost tea is a liquid form of microbiology. A fertilizer tea is when you take dry fertilizer and soak it, creating a solution. A nutrient tea is using bottled nutes to create a solution

I combine all three. Little bit here, little bit there. Recipe in particular for veg and one for flower. I also utilize extracts from other plant tissue in my teas as well. I think when you make a tea this way it’s called a plant extract tea. I use every ingredient I use and the ratio I use them in for Specific reasons. My kids pray to the Lord on a regular.


And yes you can use dolomite lime in a tea. Almost sounds like he was overdoing it. I wonder if he’s ever looked at his microbiology under the scope. Sometimes when you add too much to the water, the microbes run out of oxygen at an undesirable rate

the Munster 07-08-2020 09:44 AM

GO calmg+ or oilycann

the Munster 07-08-2020 09:50 AM

You know what THO I do not see where this mokoko has anything other than coco so idk about that part but I do know that you should listen to me to avoid crying when your kids die. Just use the liquid calmag you ordered

uh-oh 07-08-2020 11:28 AM

This is the shit I got
http://www.cannagardening.com/coco_brick

Washed & Buffered
CANNA COCO is washed, buffered and therefore ready for use.

Washed: Because coco palms grow near and on salt water, coco tissues contain large amounts of ions or salt. Salt can be very detrimental to plants when the occur above certain concentrations even though they generally are considered plant nutrients. In order to make coco suitable as a plant growth medium it needs to be washed. CANNA COCO is washed thoroughly with clean water so there is no need to rinse it yourself.

Buffered: Coco has what is considered a negative CEC (capacity of the substrate to retain and exchange water and nutrients).

The nutrients provided by the grower will be taken up by the medium and will not become available to the plant . This undesired effect must be prevented. In order to permanently stabilize the chemistry of the medium and its pH, CANNA has buffered its coco medium to make sure that the nutrients you give will go to the plant.
CANNA COCO is RHP certified for professional horticulture. This means it meets even higher requirements than other media that are RHP certified for consumer use (or not certified at all).

The RHP for Horticulture certification guarantees a clean and pure product that is free from weeds and pathogenic organisms and is suitable for professional use.

---------

Not steam sterilized too i guess that turns the shit to potassium and blocks can mag from the plants.

Since you mentioned It I did a deep dive and seen the science behind it. Basically if the coco is untreated it will steal the nutrients before your plants can. Mainly calcium and magnesium. The buffering process washes out some potassium ions and sodium and shit and replaces it with calcium and magnesium, so that the coco itself doesn't absorb any you put in it for the plants

So it makes sense but word. Gonna see how it goes

Eŋg 07-08-2020 05:57 PM

stellar work. bookmarked for further reference.

the Munster 07-09-2020 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uh-oh (Post 779828)
This is the shit I got
http://www.cannagardening.com/coco_brick

Washed & Buffered
CANNA COCO is washed, buffered and therefore ready for use.

Washed: Because coco palms grow near and on salt water, coco tissues contain large amounts of ions or salt. Salt can be very detrimental to plants when the occur above certain concentrations even though they generally are considered plant nutrients. In order to make coco suitable as a plant growth medium it needs to be washed. CANNA COCO is washed thoroughly with clean water so there is no need to rinse it yourself.

Buffered: Coco has what is considered a negative CEC (capacity of the substrate to retain and exchange water and nutrients).

The nutrients provided by the grower will be taken up by the medium and will not become available to the plant . This undesired effect must be prevented. In order to permanently stabilize the chemistry of the medium and its pH, CANNA has buffered its coco medium to make sure that the nutrients you give will go to the plant.
CANNA COCO is RHP certified for professional horticulture. This means it meets even higher requirements than other media that are RHP certified for consumer use (or not certified at all).

The RHP for Horticulture certification guarantees a clean and pure product that is free from weeds and pathogenic organisms and is suitable for professional use.

---------

Not steam sterilized too i guess that turns the shit to potassium and blocks can mag from the plants.

Since you mentioned It I did a deep dive and seen the science behind it. Basically if the coco is untreated it will steal the nutrients before your plants can. Mainly calcium and magnesium. The buffering process washes out some potassium ions and sodium and shit and replaces it with calcium and magnesium, so that the coco itself doesn't absorb any you put in it for the plants

So it makes sense but word. Gonna see how it goes

Word I’ve used canna coco several times and even with cocotek too. No problems but all coco seems to be the same to me. I walk to the pet store and use that stuff too and don’t really see a difference or anything lol

I used to use coco to especially start seeds, like I would start all seeds in party cups with coco then transplant to one gallon soil. Now I just start out in the soil I hate coco now, just how you have to prepare the water every single day

Witty 07-09-2020 08:10 AM

This seems like a lot of effort for tomatoes.

the Munster 07-09-2020 08:12 AM

I got a lemon seed plant too. I planted a lemon seed last year. She’s about knee hi. Will post pic later tonight :)

Hush 07-09-2020 10:39 AM

Word I got some avacado plants and a orange tree


But Eddie where u getting ya “tomato seeds” from

uh-oh 07-15-2020 05:36 PM

i got some tomato seedlings goin now. i can't get the temps to drop in this fucking tent though. the humidity gets sucked right out with the exhaust fan, but if i slow or kill the exhaust fan the temps shoot to like 85.

i got a big AC for my upstairs like a wall unit. its chilly as hell up here but staying warm in the tent. i don't want to buy another AC because an air conditioner will pull like 3 times the wattage as my entire tent

i could leave the tent open but that kinda defeats the purpose, im losing reflection as well as making the whole place eventually reek of tomatoes.

i got 4 little fans moving the air around in there so its probably not bad i just remember seeing somewhere the ideal temp is 68-77. im stuck at around 79. is the two degrees gonna make a big difference @the Munster ? i'll get another AC if i have to. maybe there is a cheap tiny option too i dunno, everything im seeing is either window mounted or even the portable ones you gotta run an exhaust out the window smh..

uh-oh 07-15-2020 05:37 PM

but word it sits around 59 percent humidity and 79 degrees at plant level

the Munster 07-18-2020 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uh-oh (Post 780683)
i got some tomato seedlings goin now. i can't get the temps to drop in this fucking tent though. the humidity gets sucked right out with the exhaust fan, but if i slow or kill the exhaust fan the temps shoot to like 85.

i got a big AC for my upstairs like a wall unit. its chilly as hell up here but staying warm in the tent. i don't want to buy another AC because an air conditioner will pull like 3 times the wattage as my entire tent

i could leave the tent open but that kinda defeats the purpose, im losing reflection as well as making the whole place eventually reek of tomatoes.

i got 4 little fans moving the air around in there so its probably not bad i just remember seeing somewhere the ideal temp is 68-77. im stuck at around 79. is the two degrees gonna make a big difference @the Munster ? i'll get another AC if i have to. maybe there is a cheap tiny option too i dunno, everything im seeing is either window mounted or even the portable ones you gotta run an exhaust out the window smh..

79 is fine. how Is the temperature where u live? Hot as fuck outside? Is it going to get worse?

In your situation, if you want thing cooler and you want to raise the humidity, the perfect thing to use would be an evaporative cooler, aka swamp cooler.

the Munster 07-18-2020 08:59 AM

Do you have your light on full power?

uh-oh 07-18-2020 09:08 AM

its been pretty hot, gonna be 93 today and tomorrow smh.

i think i've diagnosed a couple problems. im running tap water in the humidifier, i read that the calcium in tap water gets vaped and airborne as well, and can clog the carbon filter, which makes sense, cuz i've had the shit running since last saturday and at full blast, the air coming out of the duct is fairly slow. when i first fired it up it was blowing pretty good out the duct

the other problem is im just ducting the air into the same room. i don't want to run the duct out the window, so i've been looking at ways to maybe put in one of them little window fans that are short and have like 2-3 fans, and maybe just taping the end of the duct to one of them to blow it outside. my only concern there is i don't know how much stink the carbon filter is actually gonna kill. and the window is right above my back door which is where the parking lot for the 3 apartment/town houses are that im at, and where the landlord comes to drop off the water bill lol.

i thought about getting more duct, and running it from that room into this room where the AC is at, but i'll probably need another duct fan cuz im like i dunno 20-30 feet and a couple bends from my tent.

right now i got the humidifier off. it stays around 45-50% RH, but i wanted it closer to 70 during veg. since im in coco tho and i can't really over water im thinking if i keep the top soil nice and moist that should at least help where the humidity isnt? pseudo science i made up.

im also home during the weekend and when i open it up and peek in on them i can get the temp to drop just from opening it. im just worried about the work weeks, i come home and shits been like 81-85 all day. the plants seem fine, working on their second set of leaves, i mean they just broke through the surface tuesday.

long ass post my bad i got no one to talk to about this lol. i also thought maybe i can put the drivers for the light outside the tent, but i need pot stands/elevators. as low as i can put my light is like 26'' from the tops of them. its recommended 24 for my light so they might be stretching a bit already. but putting the drivers out i'd have to raise my light like another 10'' to reach. right now i got them ziptied up in the corner so theyre away from everything but im not sure how much they're adding to the heat

i shouldve just done this in the winter, and not literally at the hottest time of year. but i gotta figure it out one way or the other since im gonna be trying to have something going year round, only down time will be when i harvest and am drying in the tent since i can control the enviornment in there. so once cut down, 7-10 days or so before i'll be sprouting the next batch

uh-oh 07-18-2020 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the Munster (Post 781077)
Do you have your light on full power?

yea thats the other thing. they got a dimmer function, BUT its two dimmers, one for each side, and I don't want to make it uneven. its a screw, not a knob, and i think i'll need a wattage meter, to dim them one at a time and make sure each side is pulling even watts.

the Munster 07-18-2020 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uh-oh (Post 781080)
its been pretty hot, gonna be 93 today and tomorrow smh.

i think i've diagnosed a couple problems. im running tap water in the humidifier, i read that the calcium in tap water gets vaped and airborne as well, and can clog the carbon filter, which makes sense, cuz i've had the shit running since last saturday and at full blast, the air coming out of the duct is fairly slow. when i first fired it up it was blowing pretty good out the duct

the other problem is im just ducting the air into the same room. i don't want to run the duct out the window, so i've been looking at ways to maybe put in one of them little window fans that are short and have like 2-3 fans, and maybe just taping the end of the duct to one of them to blow it outside. my only concern there is i don't know how much stink the carbon filter is actually gonna kill. and the window is right above my back door which is where the parking lot for the 3 apartment/town houses are that im at, and where the landlord comes to drop off the water bill lol.

i thought about getting more duct, and running it from that room into this room where the AC is at, but i'll probably need another duct fan cuz im like i dunno 20-30 feet and a couple bends from my tent.

right now i got the humidifier off. it stays around 45-50% RH, but i wanted it closer to 70 during veg. since im in coco tho and i can't really over water im thinking if i keep the top soil nice and moist that should at least help where the humidity isnt? pseudo science i made up.

im also home during the weekend and when i open it up and peek in on them i can get the temp to drop just from opening it. im just worried about the work weeks, i come home and shits been like 81-85 all day. the plants seem fine, working on their second set of leaves, i mean they just broke through the surface tuesday.

long ass post my bad i got no one to talk to about this lol. i also thought maybe i can put the drivers for the light outside the tent, but i need pot stands/elevators. as low as i can put my light is like 26'' from the tops of them. its recommended 24 for my light so they might be stretching a bit already. but putting the drivers out i'd have to raise my light like another 10'' to reach. right now i got them ziptied up in the corner so theyre away from everything but im not sure how much they're adding to the heat

i shouldve just done this in the winter, and not literally at the hottest time of year. but i gotta figure it out one way or the other since im gonna be trying to have something going year round, only down time will be when i harvest and am drying in the tent since i can control the enviornment in there. so once cut down, 7-10 days or so before i'll be sprouting the next batch

I don’t know shit about that tap water calcium shit with the humidifier I say k.i.s.s. in response tho. Also look to replace humidifier with evaporative cooler.

Can you run your light at night? 8 hours off could be during hottest part of day?

Can you install fake door to replace door in room that tent is in and put holes in it to exhaust/intake?

the Munster 07-18-2020 11:31 AM

And if your going to get an ac or need one I would absolutely consider getting gavita pro 1000w de hps and returning that light that you basically paid the same price for and use some light bulbs until your new light arrives

uh-oh 07-18-2020 11:33 AM

i'd post pics in here but i feel weird about it lol. you got discord?


i think i did some simple tweaks that will work. my carbon filter sleeve was covered in calcium, once i took it off my exhaust fan was CRANKING and cooled it down quick.

i had everything centered too, which took like a foot off my exhaust link, but i moved it to the back and its basically all right out the tent now, and rigged it up to the ceiling so the exhaust tube makes it almost to the door.

i think the temps should be stable now, and the humidity is staying around 50-55 without the humidifier so im not even gonna use it tbh

the Munster 07-18-2020 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uh-oh (Post 781081)
yea thats the other thing. they got a dimmer function, BUT its two dimmers, one for each side, and I don't want to make it uneven. its a screw, not a knob, and i think i'll need a wattage meter, to dim them one at a time and make sure each side is pulling even watts.

Lol damn they got you. They sell a light meter/soil ph/something else meter at Lowe’s for like $14. It’s analog but it’s better than nothing and I actually use it to gauge whether kids are getting enough light it works well. The ph part did not work well imo. Well it kind of does you just have to let it sit in the soil for like 5 minutes and the instructions don’t say that

the Munster 07-18-2020 12:12 PM

Box fan diy filter

uh-oh 07-18-2020 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by the Munster (Post 781105)
Lol damn they got you. They sell a light meter/soil ph/something else meter at Lowe’s for like $14. It’s analog but it’s better than nothing and I actually use it to gauge whether kids are getting enough light it works well. The ph part did not work well imo. Well it kind of does you just have to let it sit in the soil for like 5 minutes and the instructions don’t say that

oh word? i actually have one of those, it said my ph was like 8, but thats just sticking it in, tbh it never moved whether in the coco or out. the light thing seems to work, i forget the reading but it was pretty much the same next to each plant, i wanna say halfway. and its gotta moisture reading too.

i got the thing to ph the soil but i actually ordered a bluelabs ph pen that does soil and fluid supposed to be coming today. i didn't trust that thing in the soil or the cheap ph meter i got for my water.

but yea they're so young i doubt the enviornment is affecting them yet, im just trying to get the enviornment dialed in asap. i cleaned the sleeve for my filter and its still blowing strong all hooked up so i think im in the clear now


HYPE for the next couple weeks.

the Munster 07-20-2020 08:11 AM

Man autos are tricky for new people imo. Because if you fuck up especially in the first three weeks your plant is going to be small asf. But I have faith in you


Just make sure to check them for heat or light stress. New growth is light green. Light stress is yellow, with the leaves praying but praying TOO MUCH. They can look the same at times.

But 80 degrees they should be fine you just have to make sure they don’t get too much light. The cooler it is, the more light they can take. By middle I’m assuming you mean the light meter is saying something around 750?. That’s pretty good, and you want to keep them around that so you may need to adjust the light as they grow. Once they get to around 1000 you’ll notice some differences in the way the respond to the light. You can get it this hi but you have to gradually raise the brightness for them so they aren’t overwhelmed. If they are leaning towards the light then they probably need a little more light. With mine ~500 is fine for them, they don’t even stretch toward the light at that intensity. But with a de hps of course


When you tried to soil meter part was the soil wet?

Blue lab meter are the shit too that’s what professionals use. Good choice

the Munster 07-20-2020 08:14 AM

And idk what discord is perhaps I can make an account?

uh-oh 07-20-2020 12:11 PM

yea discord is like a chat thing. Its an app you can make an account and join different channels. I joined a mr goodbuds channel too hes a YouTube grower dude and the community is solid with helping. But there is a netcees channel too i gave you an invite too but I think the invite dies after a day

But yea its like a chat room thing but you can post pics and shit on it

uh-oh 07-20-2020 12:13 PM

also i might be scorching em. The light meter is at like 1200 lmaooooo at plant level. It sticks around 78 degrees and I got the light about 24 inches from them but they're praying for sure. Ones a bit behind but their second set of leaves is going pretty decent when I left this morning

Hoping they're them 3 leafers when I get home after 5.

The light recommends 24" during veg but I dont know when the seedling phase turns to the veg stage? For seedings it said 32"

uh-oh 07-20-2020 12:14 PM

also i see people who use my light dim it but the manual says nothing about dimming them so I'm just going off distance

uh-oh 07-20-2020 12:22 PM

One last thing before I punch in tho I'm not sure what the light meter is measuring, lux/lumens? Or par? Not sure the difference or what they are lol. But its the soil meter thing that tells moisture ph and light.

The blue labs thing is sick tho. My soil is all around 6.0

Phing my water around that as well but im getting mixed advice. Since its coco people say to ph like its hydroponic, but im not using liquid nutes so I've seen others say to treat it like a mix of soil/hydroponics since the dry nutes need more of a 6.0 to 6.5

I guess if it was liquid it'd be 5.5 to 6.0

Ima just keep it around 6.2 and hope for the best lol

the Munster 07-20-2020 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uh-oh (Post 781460)
One last thing before I punch in tho I'm not sure what the light meter is measuring, lux/lumens? Or par? Not sure the difference or what they are lol. But its the soil meter thing that tells moisture ph and light.

The blue labs thing is sick tho. My soil is all around 6.0

Phing my water around that as well but im getting mixed advice. Since its coco people say to ph like its hydroponic, but im not using liquid nutes so I've seen others say to treat it like a mix of soil/hydroponics since the dry nutes need more of a 6.0 to 6.5

I guess if it was liquid it'd be 5.5 to 6.0

Ima just keep it around 6.2 and hope for the best lol

Shit is tricky. Because your not growing traditionally. 6.5 every single time is what I would do since that is the only ph that is perfect for both hydro and coco. And I’m pretty sure the meter is lumens. 1200 is pretty hi. Yea I need to figure discord shit out because I would like to see pics

You can’t base it off of the the manufacturers recommendation for the light distance each plant is literally different. You should start around 32 and adjust as they reach for the light. Unless you think they’re fine but they are not in veg yet they need like 5-6 sets of leaves before they are in veg and then once they reach the width of the pot that is when autos generally flip

the Munster 07-20-2020 04:53 PM

And you need to be watering with calmag 5 mil per gal. 6.5 every time you will be killin it if you do that

uh-oh 07-20-2020 05:42 PM

im doing a teaspoon of calmag per gallon, just googled and word thats 5 ml. the general hydroponics calmag

all though it was a bit offputting cuz i had that one dude i linked's video up and in one he addressed the calmag thing saying he never uses it in his coco cuz its buffered and doesn't have any deficiency problems as long as he follows his feeding schedule

but i dunno, as long as the plants aint getting harmed by it ima keep using it because i read coco will break down and more receptors open over time so even if its buffered it can steal more calcium and magnesium from the plants.

theyre chugging along

i'll pm another discord invite. just download the app from the appstore its free. the discussion board is basically that now lol

but word today is technically day 6, they sprouted out the EARTH tuesday last week. wedding cake autos

the Munster 07-20-2020 05:48 PM

Whoever said it was buffered and he doesn’t have problems he’s full of shit I guarantee you


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